Tools you will need:

1. Dremel with a thin cutting wheel.

2. 5 minute 5 ton epoxy or similar epoxy for re-installing the retainer ring. You may want to use longer working times to make this easier.

3. Large 4 inch hose clamp.

4. 400 grit sandpaper.

5. Isopropyl Rubbing alcohol.

6. Exacto knife with a BRAND NEW blade. Do not use an Exacto blade that has been used for anything else. If the blade is dull in anyway it may damage the vinyl when cutting the odometer windows.

7. High gloss black paint. Normally we use black lacquer. Enamels will respond adversely to some engine cleaners after the gauges are finished.

8. Windex

9. Small black washers to go under the face screws. Not needed for K2 gauges as they have a rubber o-ring and a series of washers to fasten the face.

10. Testors red paint for the indicator needle tip.

11. SAFETY GLASSES. Gauges are replaceable, your eyes are not.

12. 2 spoons.

13. Small Phillips screwdriver.

14. Clean flat workspace.

15. Pastry roller or small rolling pin.

Installing your new gauge faces.

Start with one gauge at a time. I recommend that you start with the Tach as it is easier to do. Read this completely so you are ready for each step.

1. Remove gauges from the bike. The easiest way is to remove the two acorn nuts on the back of the gauge, then remove the cable, and finally pull the lights out of the gauge. Doing it this way will allow you to leave the gauge mount in place.

2. If your bezels are in good condition, please take the time to wrap the bezel in masking tape so that it can not be damaged by the Dremel’s cutting wheel. Using the Dremel cut the chrome band in one spot. Do not let the gauge or Dremel rock during this cut as it will make your cut harder to hide later. Take your time with this process; remember there are no deadlines for completion of this project.

3. Once you have completed the cut through the fastener band, open the band just enough to release it from the gauge. Do not bend it as you will have to reuse it later.

4. Now set the bezel aside for now.

5. In this part I recommend that you have someone hold the gauge body for you, or you can put the two nuts back on the studs and lightly clamp it in a vice ONLY on the nuts. Do not clamp on the main body. Using the two 2 spoons as a lever, one on each side pry the needle straight up. Do not cheat and try to use pliers for this as you will damage the needle or the shaft. This will not take a lot of force to remove. Be gentle and take your time. Once you have the needle off set it aside with the bezel.

6. Remove the two small screws that hold the face and remove the face.

7. If you are using the DUE SOUTH GAUGE FACES SKIP THIS STEP. Flip over the gauge face and take your marker and make a line at the first increment line on the back. This will be used as a line up reference later to make sure everything will line up later.

8. To prep for install, the O.E. face it must be clean and smooth to give superior adhesion. Like paint, prep is everything here. Use the 400 grit sandpaper flat on a table surface and then flipped over the O.E. face and rubbed it on the sand paper. This will make sure that you have a nice flat surface for the label to adhere to. Make sure to sand until all crazing lines are removed.

9. Now take your nice clean gauge face and clean it with rubbing alcohol. Apply the rubbing alcohol to a soft clean rag and then rub on the gauge metal. Make it a point to not get the gauge face contaminated with sweat or finger oils. At this point handle it like a cd. Now use a piece of clear packing tape doubled over and stick it to the face several times to pick up any solid contaminants at this time.

10. Attach the suction cups to the back of the gauge face. These will prove to be decent handles during the next process. Not required but helpful.

11. Now give the face a squirt with your Windex. Just one squirt, a little goes a long way on this.

12. Take a deep breath now; this is the only hard part of this install. Make sure you will be able to stick with it until the gauge face is on the O.E. gauge backing. No distractions.

13. Remove the adhesive side of the label paper, LEAVE THE PROTECTIVE FACE SIDE YOU WILL NEED IT. You are now exposing the adhesive for the label. This is serious business now, this will trap any air borne dust and create dimples in your gauge face with the trapped dirt during install which is usually fatal for the gauge face as they CAN NOT be removed afterwards without wrecking the decal. These are not cute dimples either so, cleanliness is next to Godliness, so be a GOD.

14. With the gauge face wet with Windex line up the center holes in the face. Set the face on the backing lightly and adjust as needed. Do not push the label on to the backing until you know you have it all lined up like you want. Ok now you got it lined up.

15. Pinch the suction cups and release them from the back.

16. Now that the face is installed on the old disc, lay it on a flat table. Get your pastry roller and gently roll out any bubbles in the face. It is helpful to use a piece of paper between your roller and the face when doing this. Don’t panic here if the bubbles are stubborn, because we are using Windex this decal will remain re- positionable for quite some time.

17. Now that you have the first face installed let it set for about ½ hour pressed between some books. Heavy is ok as long as the decal is not intentionally shifted side to side. This gives the adhesive on the decal time to work through your Windex and fully adhere.

18. If you are doing a speedometer that does not come with the windows pre cut now is the time to cut them out. Now might be a good time to go get that cutting board from the kitchen. Without the cutting board you will damage your table top and probably piss someone off. Flip the face over face down to your cutting board. Using your Exacto knife with a NEW blade. Holding the face down to the cutting board, gently follow the outlines of the odometer windows with your Exacto knife blade. This is also a finesse step. If your blade fails to cut cleanly at any time during this change it. This part should not be a struggle. Forcing a dull blade WILL ruin the vinyl decal. Minor detail trimming can be done from the view side of the face once it is installed.

19. Now that you have the windows cut out, peel back the face side paper gently. When pulling back this paper make sure that you are pulling at almost 180 degrees from the flat surface. If you pull it straight up away from the face you may lift the face. Set the face aside.

20. Now get your two small black washers and slip them over the original face screws. These are important as they protect the gauge face you installed from the turning force of screws as you tighten them.

21. Now set the face onto the gauge body. And install the screw WITH THE WASHERS. Lightly tighten them. Make sure not to distort the decal. If the decal does distort a little just the back the screw up about a ¼ turn and retighten LIGHTLY.

22. Before you install the needle test fit the face into the bezel. Test install the body to the bezel. If you would rather have a matte finish on your gauge face then get matte fixative from a craft shop and remove the face and give it a thing coat of matte fixative.

23. Mask and repaint the gauge bezels with black lacquer if it is needed.

24. Clean the inside of the gauge bezel with Windex. Be careful of the edge of the illuminator surround by the lens as these are very sharp on their edges.

25. Now paint the tip of the needle with the red Testors paint. Leave to dry.

26. Install the needle on the shaft. Take care to line it up correctly. Once you have it lined up it should take a light push to make sure it is seated correctly.

27. Mix up your epoxy. Mix up no more than a spot about the size of a dime.

28. Take your hose clamp and slip it over the retainer ring and tighten until it touches enough to stay in the clamp.

29. Now place the bezel and gauge body together and slip the retainer ring around the assembly.

30. Apply a small amount of epoxy to the area of the retainer ring opening. Try to position this opening in a way that it will not be seen when it is installed.

31. Tighten clamp until the retainer ring is tight. Wipe off any glue that comes out immediately.

32. Depending on your working time of the epoxy you selected your gauge should be ready in a short time to install.

The first gauge is the hard one. The second one is always easier.

Please feel free to contact me at tneubauer@anubiscycle.com or call me at 608-415-1401. If you have any additions you feel should be in these instructions please contact us. With your help and feedback we make a superior product every time.

Anubis Cycle LLC
Owner
Thomas Neubauer
www.anubiscycle.com

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